Rewarding

stefaniekunzelman • 4 March 2024

You Can’t Train a Dog Without Mastering the Art of Rewarding



Without rewards, there is no training of a happy dog, it is pure and simple. Even the most difficult of dogs, when rewarded with the right “treat” at the right time for the right behavior can be made happier.


One must first understand that although all dogs have similarities, sometimes hugely similar, they are in fact distinct from one another, even within breeds or even litters. Knowing this will greatly influence how you reward your dog, especially the more difficult pups.


Everyone wants to have a happy dog, a well-mannered dog, a dog you can take with you anywhere you go and be proud. How can we define a Happy Dog? Let’s be a bit more specific, how can we define a happy dog in a good home? Simply put, a happy dog is one that is living as close as possible to a stress free life. Some stress is a good thing and is required as stress defines boundaries. Knowing those boundaries, believe it or not, helps relieve the dog from what might be more stressful situations. Properly trained, stress will also elevate the value of the reward given for enduring the stress.


To clarify, not every dog is going to be happy in some of the situations that we would like them to be! Just like humans, some dogs don’t want to be in the midst of a crowded bus station while others might thrive on the attention they would get. Some dogs are going to detest going into a lake for a swim while others will be Swan diving into those beckoning waves. “Happy” is determined by the character of the dog, not by us humans.


One might equate stress in the real world of a dog to the boy who wants so badly that Lamborghini looking mountain bike with full suspension, disc brakes and clip pedals but to get it he must get good grades. The report card comes home with mostly A’s and nothing lower than a B, the bike is his. The bike, the reward, is his motivation to achieve better grades. Where is the stress? The boy knows he won’t get the bike if he is outside playing with his friends rather than at the kitchen table studying. He knows that when there is an issue with a topic, rather than just ignoring it, he will have to ask for help. With a pup it is no different. The pup wants that tasty treat presented to him at the tip of his nose so badly. He could be pawing at the hand, jumping on the owner, turning circles in expectation or even nipping to get his way. That bit of heaven doesn’t make it to his mouth till that butt hits the ground though and is absolutely frustrating till the pup, through repetition, figures out it needs to work (Sit) for that treat. Work IS stress.


In layman terms, the reward is worth so much more when you have to invest for it.

Both scenarios could be presented in as many ways as there are people or dogs on earth. These two examples were held at a simplistic level to illustrate how a reward can motivate a boy or a dog and how stress is needed to ‘learn’.


There are three primary types of rewards that we can offer our dogs. Treats, Love and Play. There are other motivators but for training purposes, we will stick to the three above mentioned. For most dogs, playing is the highest reward that you can give. Love is a reward that all dogs will appreciate and treats, though appreciated by most dogs, are the least value but very important in every aspect of training.


Dogs learn most efficiently when using a so called “Binary language” which consists of “Yes and No”. Take either the “Yes” or the “No” out of the training and a dog will have a VERY difficult time understanding what is being asked of it. The YES portion of the training is very well defined and understood by most if not all trainers, the Treats, Love and Play aspect. The NO aspect of training with dogs has been and still is up for debate. One thing is clear, if the “NO” portion of the training is ambiguous for the dog, it will take much longer to comprehend what is being taught, if it makes a connection at all. “Much Longer”, for the average dog owner, at the very least, means substantially more money. Worst case, more money and zero results. We will cover the “NO” portion of the training in a different blog.


Treats… there are different levels of treats. Low value, medium value and High value. For every dog, these three categories will have different definitions, in particular the High value treat. For the average dog though, the Low value treat would be the kibble they get every day as a meal or milk bones. The medium value treats would be the soft chews and dog jerkies offered at almost all pet stores. The high value treat, basically stated, is human food. Hot dogs, string cheese, lunch meats and the like.


When training a pup any new command, it is almost inevitable that the high value treat will be required. The same goes for keeping your pup’s attention when confronted with higher levels of distraction. As stated earlier, the problem(s) begin when you have a pup that is out of the norm, a dog that is not so food motivated or highly energetic. There might be a treat that will motivate said dog but it will possibly take a while to identify that treat which gets his attention. Dogs that are not treat motivated will take more time to train as most commands require a dog to assume a position or preform and act. To assume a position, a pup is “lured” into that position then rewarded with a treat. If a pup is uninterested in the treat, it will not be lured with (will not follow) the treat. In these cases, the “traditional method” of training will be required. One places the dog into the desired position then rewards with Love.

Love is among the most effective ways to reward your pup for proper behavior (and hence a huge part of the “Traditional” method of training). It is also the reward that every dog will accept, even those dogs that are deemed by most to be “too aggressive” (there are VERY few exceptions). As with any reward (or correction), the reward needs to be presented with impeccable timing. Too early or too late and the pup will not associate the reward properly with the behavior you are expecting.


It is almost without exception, everyone not trained in the art of working with dogs disregards rewarding for all the desired good behaviors, the most basic reward - using the ability to love on your pup! Sounds easy doesn’t it, “loving on your pup”? Not so quick. Unless the pup you are working with is your own, most dogs will not appreciate you patting them on the head or scratching them behind the ear (It seems this is the common method of ‘loving’ on your pup when training). Well then, what is the proper method? When beginning with training, for every pup… slow, long, firm strokes along the dogs back and sides is the correct way to tell your pup they just did something correctly. The firm touch relays the message of strength from you. The slow administration of the stroke calms your pup. Three or four ‘pets’ is plenty to convey the ‘yes’.


Playing with your pup is the most valuable reward you can give your pup. Dogs are social animals and the more you interact with them, the closer the bond you will have. The trick to using play as a reward needs to be learned from a professional. It can be written and again shown in a video clip but nothing can replace the in person instruction from someone that can correct you for improper timing or even when not to reward your pup. As stated earlier, it is all about using the right toy in the right way for your dog combined with perfect timing.

One of the worst things a trainer / owner can do is reward (or correct) a dog at the wrong time for the wrong behavior.


Here are a few examples of when not to reward your pup;

  1. Freely given rewards where it is has not been worked for

  2. For barking out the window

  3. Growling at a stranger

  4. When giving the reward simultaneously with a marker word

  5. Too early in the execution of a command or behavior, respectively

  6. Too late in the execution of a command or behavior

  7. Giving a reward for a proper behavior that was directly followed by a bad one

  8. For the dominant dog, whenever he snuggles up to you expecting love

  9. For the fearful dog, whenever it jumps into your lap when its scared.

  10. When a dog is jumping on you

A very important point to remember… NEVER forget to reward your dog for those behaviors that you want to promote! EVERY SINGLE TIME! We are all very quick at correcting the bad behavior, we need to be just as quick (AND WITH JOY) to reward our pups for doing what we ask of them.


When you have mastered the ability to reward your dog effectively, you will find that a sparkling new door has been opened to you in the world of dog training. One that is rewarding for you because you will see immediate positive results from your furry friends!

A word of advice; do not train on those days when you are grumpy or distressed! With certainty, your voice will be ‘off’, your timing will be off, your expectations from your dog will be off. You CAN and WILL do more harm than good.




by Stefanie Kunzelman 9 February 2025
Dog separation anxiety is a common behavioral issue that affects many dogs when they are left alone or are separated from their owners. This anxiety can manifest in various forms of distress and destructive behaviors, which can be troublesome for both the dog and its owner. Understanding the underlying causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions are essential to managing and alleviating separation anxiety in dogs. Dogs are creatures of habit, and any significant change in their daily routine can trigger anxiety. This could include changes in the owner's work schedule, moving to a new home, or a sudden alteration in the household dynamics, such as the arrival of a new family member or pet. Dogs that have experienced abandonment, abuse, or multiple re-homing situations are more likely to develop separation anxiety. The fear of being left alone again can cause significant stress and anxiety. Dogs that have not been properly trained to cope with being alone may struggle with separation anxiety. Early socialization and gradual acclimatization to periods of solitude are crucial in preventing anxiety from developing. One of the most common signs of separation anxiety is destructive behavior, such as chewing on furniture, scratching doors, or tearing up household items. This behavior is often a result of the dog's attempt to escape or alleviate its anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety may bark or howl excessively when left alone. This vocalization is a form of distress signaling and can be a significant indicator of anxiety. Despite being house-trained, dogs with separation anxiety may urinate or defecate indoors when left alone. This behavior is often linked to the stress and panic they experience in their owner's absence. Some dogs may try to escape from their confinement areas, such as crates or rooms, causing damage to doors, windows, or even injuring themselves in the process. Physical symptoms of anxiety, such as excessive drooling, panting, or shaking, can also be observed in dogs with separation anxiety. Gradual desensitization involves slowly acclimating the dog to being alone by starting with brief periods of separation and gradually increasing the duration over time. This helps the dog build confidence and reduce anxiety. Providing a safe and comfortable space for the dog, such as a crate or a designated room, can help reduce anxiety. This space should be equipped with the dog's favorite toys, bedding, and items that carry the owner's scent. Implementing positive reinforcement training techniques can help modify the dog's behavior. Rewarding calm behavior and gradually exposing the dog to being alone can help reduce anxiety. Ideally, it is best to start desensitizing dogs while they are still puppies or for the rescued pup, right from the first day they arrive at their new forever home. Begin by identifying what should be a safe space for your dog. The crate is recommended as it is practical because it can be taken with you on vacation or brought to another person’s home that is intending to watch out for the pup. Do not force your dog into the crate as it is to become a safe space. Reducing or eliminating separation anxiety will only happen through positive association with their safe space. Begin by tossing treats into the crate so the dog may find them and be rewarded for entering the crate. Once the dog is entering on its own to look for treats, place a treat in the crate and close the door. Position yourself comfortably next to the crate. The dog will begin to get excited, whining and scratching to get out. It is in this phase that you, the owner must remain strong. Whether out of sympathy for the pup or because the noise is so annoying, you will be inclined to let the dog out. Do not! You will be rewarding the dog for its bad behavior. Once your dog has calmed down, this may take several minutes or even longer, open the door, let your dog out and reward with treats and love. Repeat the above sequence many times a day. When your dog begins to relax right away when the door is closed, then you need to begin to put distance between you and the crate. When you are able, create that distance, then you start leaving the room, first for short periods of time and then increasing longer. Once the dog is used to you being away longer and out of sight in the home, then you start going outdoors. Again, start short then gradually increase the duration of the separation. When leaving home, do not give your dog ques that you are leaving for a longer period. Do you say “Goodbye” to your pup before heading to work? Do you say “Goodbye” to your dog when you go to the mailbox? Treat your dog the same way no matter what you are leaving the home for. Ensuring that the dog receives adequate mental and physical stimulation can help alleviate anxiety. Regular exercise, interactive toys, and puzzle feeders can keep the dog engaged and reduce stress levels. In severe cases of separation anxiety, seeking help from a professional dog trainer or a veterinarian may be necessary. They can provide specialized training programs or recommend medication to manage the anxiety. Dog separation anxiety is a challenging issue that requires patience, understanding, and consistent effort from the owner. By identifying the causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions, owners can help their dogs overcome separation anxiety and lead happier, stress-free lives. The key to success lies in a combination of gradual desensitization, creating a safe environment, providing mental and physical stimulation, and seeking professional help when needed. With dedication and empathy, dog owners can significantly improve their pets' well-being and strengthen their bond. Videos with additional information / Technicks Cesar Millan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmVSLqCh-RI Beckman https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAoDtfpBwVs Steve Mann https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vps9Es0T_5E The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors! References • American Kennel Club. (2021). Separation Anxiety in Dogs. Retrieved from [URL] • PetMD. (2020). How to Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL] • ASPCA. (2019). Dog Behavior: Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL]
by Stefanie Kunzelman 29 January 2025
One of the most annoying and often scary behaviors a dog can exhibit is Food Possessiveness towards people. In this blog we are going to address the topic of food possessiveness in puppies. What is a puppy? You could talk to 20 different people and get 20 different answers. In the world of training, the vast majority of trainers will tell you that a puppy (that is to be trained) is between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks. What are the defining characteristics of a puppy that is food possessive? Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are near the food bowl when the dog is eating Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when your hand approaches the food bowl while the dog is eating. Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are petting the dog while it is eating Why does a puppy (and dogs) show this bad behavior? Simply put, they do not want their food to be taken away. How to address this behavior in a puppy (or a dog)? Show and ingrain in the puppy that we do NOT intend to take their food away! The best way to address this behavior is when the dog is a puppy! If you Google the topic or go on YouTube, you will find a multitude of information on the subject. One thing that I have noticed is that a lot of those people providing the information seem to be stuck on their ‘method’. What I would like to emphasize is that nearly all the methods that I have seen are good! The best methods that I would recommend are listed below. Things you should do (for puppies!): Touching / petting the puppy while it is eating, provoking the bad behavior. If the bad behavior is exhibited, continue petting until it seems less then stop If there is no bad behavior, stop petting sooner Offer higher rewards (to draw the puppy away from its food) You must offer something to the puppy that is of higher food value than what they have in their bowl! If the pup is being fed kibble then offer a jerky If the pup is being fed wet food then offer a food scrap (piece of chicken or steak – can be raw if you know the pup likes it) With your hand close to bowl, call their name, entice them and give the treat When the pup is used to this, call them off the bowl a few feet before giving the treat, or Entice them away from the bowl, while giving the treat, pick up the bowl. Place the bowl back down in front of the pup after a short moment Feed the puppy by hand With the food bowl on the ground, drop the kibble bit by bit into the bowl. The pup sees the food is coming from you! Train with the food This is a method often used by dog trainers, the advantages The puppy is always hungry and driven to work for the food The puppy learns that the food comes from the human The puppy does not learn to guard a food bowl in the first place Things you should NOT do: Do not ‘correct’ your puppy You want to have the most loyal and playful dog! Corrections at this age will dampen your pups’ feelings towards you. Unless using the training or feed by hand method (breakfast is used as the reward during training), do not constantly intervene in your pups feeding time. It may annoy the pup and possibly have the opposite results! For more detailed information, the following links have been listed: 1. How to Stop Puppy Resource Guarding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oyft03x6cU 2. How to Deal With FOOD AGGRESSIVE PUPPIES! | Shield K9 Clips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VM0N_4jx9M The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors!
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