The Prong Collar – Why it Works

stefaniekunzelman • 27 March 2024


Think back to those days when you really enjoyed watching a good horror film. I mean that nasty movie that had you slumping in your seat, so engrossed in the moment that the movie was, at that moment, your whole world. The protagonist is found in a no-win situation, an imminent, bloody and beyond painful death is nearly upon him… then your partner pokes you in the ribs and blares a blood curdling “Buooohhhh Haaa Ha!” into your ear.


You are ripped out of the fantasy world your mind was engulfed in and immediately faced with reality again.


Or maybe, you are driving down the highway? You have been on the road for a good hour and your thoughts had been wandering back to the problems at home or work. All of the questions about what happened?

How could I have let things get this way? What can I do to change what is coming? Where do I begin with making things right? The stress is almost overwhelming, and your thoughts have you on auto-pilot. The dashed center line is just a blur, the bridges you pass blend in with the clouds, the cars you had been passing look like transparent ghosts, whisps of fog, flowing into your barely perceived mirror.


To your horror, your whole front windshield is suddenly filled with the flashing red and blues light of a shark lying patiently for its next prey. All of the previous weeks of bad decisions and ugly situations are whisked from your thoughts as though they were never there. Your concentration now is completely on the big question… Are those lights for me. Your mind is now wholey in the moment.


In both scenarios, the persons find themselves fixated on something so intensely that all else around them has faded into the background and is barely registered. Both are literally shocked back into the real world. The “shock”, is not painful… Well, physically it is not painful. The second scenario might present a shock to the pocketbook. The point is, both persons were abruptly brought back to the real world and “into the moment”.


Most people who own dogs want a well-trained dog or at the very least a well-mannered dog. You can have neither unless you have a dog that is focused on you and understands what you expect of them.

Focus is very important when expecting a dog to not become reactive to people or dogs. Just as important is that a dog must understand that it is not their place to become reactive to their surroundings unless Mom or Dad allows it.


What does it mean to become “reactive”? The definition from a dictionary.

  1. Showing a response to a stimulus

  2. Acting in response to a situation rather than creating or controlling it

When dogs ‘react’ they are putting themselves into what we call a “heightened” state of mind. Once in this state, it is very difficult to get them out of it.


Before getting into what we, as dog owners, need to do with a reactive pup, let’s take a look at how dogs react in real life when dealing with each other.


Momma dog has a litter of pups that are about 3 weeks old. Their eyes are just opening and a whole new world is being presented to them. Wow! The wonder of it all! The sounds that they have been hearing, the smells that have been bombarding them are all taking on shape. The world is now a magnet that is pulling them out of their den to discover the meaning of this new information. Momma is napping, trying to recover some of her strength but wakes often with the feeling of loss. One of her pups is once again on an adventure and roaming out into the big wide world. She rises, leaves the den to find the young pup just beyond the warm blankets, nose in the air, oblivious to moms’ approach. She reaches down, engulfs his head in her mouth, then deftly grabs a large swath of skin at his neck, her teeth firmly planted so as not to lose the precious boy to gravity. Dangling from her mouth, she carries him back to the den, all the while thinking “Oh, no you don’t”.


Momma dog’s litter is now several weeks older. The pups are getting to their rambunctious age, jumping, chasing and rough and tumbling with one another… That would include trying to get momma in on the fun. Momma is tired and drained though and would rather have a break from all the fun. One pup in particular is tenacious and continuously pounces on momma’s back to the grab at her ears and lips with his needle sharp teeth. It doesn’t take long for momma to become, well, bitchy? She begins to raise her lips in protest, a bit of her eye whites flashing with her rising mood temperature. A clear warning to the little guy that wants to instigate a good chase. He lunges again to be confronted with not only the earlier warnings but also with a good grump and snap of the teeth. Boy is this fun, the little guy is thinking to himself, pitching out his first attempts at a bark. Not catching the more than obvious hint, he springs at her head again. This time his antics are answered with a resounding growl, a solid nip at his neck and momma, like a flash of lightening poised above him in the most menacing of manners. The little guy is now on his back looking up at ferocious display of teeth and piddled onto his belly where the wetness rolls to the ground for all others to smell. The playful behavior has left him completely to be replaced by wonderment at momma’s sudden setting of boundaries.


The pups, now about 15 weeks of age, are out playing. They largely avoid momma because she can be so obnoxious to them when they are having fun. The pen they are in is large enough for all to move around comfortably and magically things appear that are so fun to push around and attack and chew on. The problem? All of the pups want to do the same with these things. It is a free-for-all but only the strongest seem to have any time with these, toys. Inevitably little fights break out where one pup will chase the other, tossing the annoying one to the ground where he instinctively hovers over the weaker with teeth on his opponents’ neck. The scuffle started out as “My trophy”, “My Ball”, “My Bone” but in the heat of the moment has turned into, “I bested you!”, “I am the boss!”, the bone now forgotten with two other pups challenging each other for possession.


What to take from these scenarios? These pups, to include momma dog, are not out to hurt each other. So what is the point? They use their teeth to pass on information to the other dogs in the family. These puppies are confronted with this type of transfer of information since a very young age.


Okay, what to do with the reactive dog? Training. Pure and simple. We train the dogs that focusing on us, the parents, is rewarding. The dogs need to know that being physically located right next to us is the best place in the world. They need to understand that when adverse situations do occur, we are in control. The dog does not need to be scared or feel challenged by what might be taking place in front of them. If the situation does reach a point where the dog thinks a reaction is necessary, the pup needs to know that the leader (mom or dad) will ‘transfer’ information to it about its upcoming annoying attitude and that it will be rewarded for behaving well instead.


When trained properly, a dog does very well understand the difference between what we have taught to be ‘right’ and what is ‘wrong’.


How to best facilitate this kind of training? Focus is fairly easy, we just need to appeal to the dogs sense of fun, rewarding the dog for keeping its attention on us when we require it. This is only half the answer though. When stress enters any given situation, even the greatest rewards that a dog might want won’t necessarily get them to look at you. This is where ‘negative’ reinforcement comes into play. When the pup understands that its action(s) will be reacted to negatively but if focus is re-established it will be rewarded.


The way to avoid our dogs becoming reactive is to get their focus on us BEFORE they become reactive to a situation. Again, once in that heightened state of mind, it is very difficult to get them out of it without removing them from the situation.


When effectively and efficiently training anyone or any animal, we need to use those tools that best promote that training. When training pilots, we use a simulator, right? When working with dogs, ‘laying teeth on’ is something that they understand very well. This is where the Prong Collar comes in.


First and foremost, the Prong collar is a training tool! Just as with any other tool, used properly, this tool can be a huge asset in the training of a dog. Mis-used, it may cause a dog to become very anxious resulting in more unwanted issues.


There are a lot of trainers out there looking to ban this tool, claiming that it is intentionally hurting the dogs. Once again, used properly, this tool is not designed to hurt the dog. One would have to equate this to operating a bulldozer. Let someone who is not qualified jump into the driver’s seat, the likelihood that the person is to cause more damage than good is greater than great. Once that person has trained and earned his certification on that piece of equipment, one might expect hugely positive results from his / her time in the driver’s seat.


Yes, the prong collar looks brutal, it looks medieval. Yes, the prong collar is designed to imitate teeth but without the devastating effect that real teeth can have.


How can this work? Imagine, your pup is barking out the window, he is in a heightened state of mind. Calling his name doesn’t work because the stimulus outside outweighs the reward he might get from you. “Laying Teeth On”, is just like poking you in the ribs with that scary movie or turning on those Red and Blue lights when you are on the highway. Properly applied, the dog will break its attention from the distraction at hand to look to see who is ‘biting’.


“If you can get your dog to look at you, you can get him to listen.”


The magic in this collar is to never have pressure on it unless required to get your pup’s focus. The amount of ‘force’ one uses depends on the heightened state your dog is in.


A good analogy; imagine you are at a concert with your partner. You pay at the front gate and walk in. There is no music playing and very few people around. You are thirsty and tap your partner on the shoulder to say “Lets go get something to drink.” The message is easily understood. Get that music playing at one hundred twenty decibels and fifty or sixty people pushing around you and that tap won’t work. You will have to smack your partner on the shoulder and yell, “Lets go get something to drink!”. Your partner may not understand what you are yelling about but you have his attention.


The absolute same is true for the prong collar and the state of mind your pup is in. You are using just enough force to overcome the heightened state of mind and get focus back. Once focus is achieved, the dog is asked to sit where he is then rewarded with treats and love.


Notes:

  1. CAUTION! Not all Prong collars are equal! Use only those that have rounded tips! Those with flat tips may have edges that will hurt your dog.

  2. The prong is a training tool. It should only be used as such. Do not allow a pup to have it on 24/7.

  3. The dogs should be taught that the prong collar is a good thing! The same as when a leash is put on, the pups should rejoice with the sight of it.

  4. If your pup cowers when presented with the prong, you are certainly doing something wrong.

  5. Not all dogs are the same! Some pups are so sensitive to corrections they do not require the prong collar.

  6. The Prong works so well because it substantially reduces the amount of effort required to get a pup’s attention.

  7. “Laying Teeth On” puts you in Momma’s paws (shoes). You are establishing yourself as the leader. A very important aspect in the decision-making process of a dog.


by Stefanie Kunzelman 9 February 2025
Dog separation anxiety is a common behavioral issue that affects many dogs when they are left alone or are separated from their owners. This anxiety can manifest in various forms of distress and destructive behaviors, which can be troublesome for both the dog and its owner. Understanding the underlying causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions are essential to managing and alleviating separation anxiety in dogs. Dogs are creatures of habit, and any significant change in their daily routine can trigger anxiety. This could include changes in the owner's work schedule, moving to a new home, or a sudden alteration in the household dynamics, such as the arrival of a new family member or pet. Dogs that have experienced abandonment, abuse, or multiple re-homing situations are more likely to develop separation anxiety. The fear of being left alone again can cause significant stress and anxiety. Dogs that have not been properly trained to cope with being alone may struggle with separation anxiety. Early socialization and gradual acclimatization to periods of solitude are crucial in preventing anxiety from developing. One of the most common signs of separation anxiety is destructive behavior, such as chewing on furniture, scratching doors, or tearing up household items. This behavior is often a result of the dog's attempt to escape or alleviate its anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety may bark or howl excessively when left alone. This vocalization is a form of distress signaling and can be a significant indicator of anxiety. Despite being house-trained, dogs with separation anxiety may urinate or defecate indoors when left alone. This behavior is often linked to the stress and panic they experience in their owner's absence. Some dogs may try to escape from their confinement areas, such as crates or rooms, causing damage to doors, windows, or even injuring themselves in the process. Physical symptoms of anxiety, such as excessive drooling, panting, or shaking, can also be observed in dogs with separation anxiety. Gradual desensitization involves slowly acclimating the dog to being alone by starting with brief periods of separation and gradually increasing the duration over time. This helps the dog build confidence and reduce anxiety. Providing a safe and comfortable space for the dog, such as a crate or a designated room, can help reduce anxiety. This space should be equipped with the dog's favorite toys, bedding, and items that carry the owner's scent. Implementing positive reinforcement training techniques can help modify the dog's behavior. Rewarding calm behavior and gradually exposing the dog to being alone can help reduce anxiety. Ideally, it is best to start desensitizing dogs while they are still puppies or for the rescued pup, right from the first day they arrive at their new forever home. Begin by identifying what should be a safe space for your dog. The crate is recommended as it is practical because it can be taken with you on vacation or brought to another person’s home that is intending to watch out for the pup. Do not force your dog into the crate as it is to become a safe space. Reducing or eliminating separation anxiety will only happen through positive association with their safe space. Begin by tossing treats into the crate so the dog may find them and be rewarded for entering the crate. Once the dog is entering on its own to look for treats, place a treat in the crate and close the door. Position yourself comfortably next to the crate. The dog will begin to get excited, whining and scratching to get out. It is in this phase that you, the owner must remain strong. Whether out of sympathy for the pup or because the noise is so annoying, you will be inclined to let the dog out. Do not! You will be rewarding the dog for its bad behavior. Once your dog has calmed down, this may take several minutes or even longer, open the door, let your dog out and reward with treats and love. Repeat the above sequence many times a day. When your dog begins to relax right away when the door is closed, then you need to begin to put distance between you and the crate. When you are able, create that distance, then you start leaving the room, first for short periods of time and then increasing longer. Once the dog is used to you being away longer and out of sight in the home, then you start going outdoors. Again, start short then gradually increase the duration of the separation. When leaving home, do not give your dog ques that you are leaving for a longer period. Do you say “Goodbye” to your pup before heading to work? Do you say “Goodbye” to your dog when you go to the mailbox? Treat your dog the same way no matter what you are leaving the home for. Ensuring that the dog receives adequate mental and physical stimulation can help alleviate anxiety. Regular exercise, interactive toys, and puzzle feeders can keep the dog engaged and reduce stress levels. In severe cases of separation anxiety, seeking help from a professional dog trainer or a veterinarian may be necessary. They can provide specialized training programs or recommend medication to manage the anxiety. Dog separation anxiety is a challenging issue that requires patience, understanding, and consistent effort from the owner. By identifying the causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions, owners can help their dogs overcome separation anxiety and lead happier, stress-free lives. The key to success lies in a combination of gradual desensitization, creating a safe environment, providing mental and physical stimulation, and seeking professional help when needed. With dedication and empathy, dog owners can significantly improve their pets' well-being and strengthen their bond. Videos with additional information / Technicks Cesar Millan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmVSLqCh-RI Beckman https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAoDtfpBwVs Steve Mann https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vps9Es0T_5E The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors! References • American Kennel Club. (2021). Separation Anxiety in Dogs. Retrieved from [URL] • PetMD. (2020). How to Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL] • ASPCA. (2019). Dog Behavior: Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL]
by Stefanie Kunzelman 29 January 2025
One of the most annoying and often scary behaviors a dog can exhibit is Food Possessiveness towards people. In this blog we are going to address the topic of food possessiveness in puppies. What is a puppy? You could talk to 20 different people and get 20 different answers. In the world of training, the vast majority of trainers will tell you that a puppy (that is to be trained) is between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks. What are the defining characteristics of a puppy that is food possessive? Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are near the food bowl when the dog is eating Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when your hand approaches the food bowl while the dog is eating. Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are petting the dog while it is eating Why does a puppy (and dogs) show this bad behavior? Simply put, they do not want their food to be taken away. How to address this behavior in a puppy (or a dog)? Show and ingrain in the puppy that we do NOT intend to take their food away! The best way to address this behavior is when the dog is a puppy! If you Google the topic or go on YouTube, you will find a multitude of information on the subject. One thing that I have noticed is that a lot of those people providing the information seem to be stuck on their ‘method’. What I would like to emphasize is that nearly all the methods that I have seen are good! The best methods that I would recommend are listed below. Things you should do (for puppies!): Touching / petting the puppy while it is eating, provoking the bad behavior. If the bad behavior is exhibited, continue petting until it seems less then stop If there is no bad behavior, stop petting sooner Offer higher rewards (to draw the puppy away from its food) You must offer something to the puppy that is of higher food value than what they have in their bowl! If the pup is being fed kibble then offer a jerky If the pup is being fed wet food then offer a food scrap (piece of chicken or steak – can be raw if you know the pup likes it) With your hand close to bowl, call their name, entice them and give the treat When the pup is used to this, call them off the bowl a few feet before giving the treat, or Entice them away from the bowl, while giving the treat, pick up the bowl. Place the bowl back down in front of the pup after a short moment Feed the puppy by hand With the food bowl on the ground, drop the kibble bit by bit into the bowl. The pup sees the food is coming from you! Train with the food This is a method often used by dog trainers, the advantages The puppy is always hungry and driven to work for the food The puppy learns that the food comes from the human The puppy does not learn to guard a food bowl in the first place Things you should NOT do: Do not ‘correct’ your puppy You want to have the most loyal and playful dog! Corrections at this age will dampen your pups’ feelings towards you. Unless using the training or feed by hand method (breakfast is used as the reward during training), do not constantly intervene in your pups feeding time. It may annoy the pup and possibly have the opposite results! For more detailed information, the following links have been listed: 1. How to Stop Puppy Resource Guarding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oyft03x6cU 2. How to Deal With FOOD AGGRESSIVE PUPPIES! | Shield K9 Clips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VM0N_4jx9M The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors!
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