The Power of your Voice

stefaniekunzelman • 18 March 2024

“Use the Force Luke”, one of the most popular recited lines from the Mega hit Star Wars series.

With the mere flick wave of a hand, Obi Won Kenobi is able to influence the decisions of the feeble minds of others.

The ‘Voice’ in the movie Dune, when adequately trained and using words of ‘power’ the protagonists were able to use sound as a powerful weapon both for destruction and to influence the minds of others.



In both cases, when correctly using one’s voice, one can manipulate others to do ones will.

When training with dogs, it is very similar.


Dogs do not understand words (there might be those that will dispute this statement but for the vast majority of our four-legged friends, this statement is true), they do, however, understand our emotions, our actions and our tones of voice. Dogs are quite literally empaths.

If you have taken the time to bond with your dog…


Have you ever noticed that when you are grieving, your pup will come and cuddle with you? Have you ever noticed that when you are very excited that your pup is jumping with joy with you? Have you ever noticed that when you are scared, your dog is also on edge?


When you are walking your reactive dog (a dog that barks and pulls whenever it might see a person or dog that it wants to greet) have you ever reflected on how you react? Do you get stiff out of anticipation of how your dog is going to react? Do you automatically pull up on the leash putting tension on your dogs’ collar… even when your pup has not yet seen the oncoming distraction? Subconsciously you are tipping your dog off to your feelings about the situation you are about to be confronted with.


The way you talk to your dog also has a big impact on how it reacts. When you are sad and explaining your heartbreak to your pup, have you noticed that those puppy eyes are reflecting your feelings? When you are overjoyed, your voice gets higher and the giggles and laughter sends your dog into the most dramatic of zoomies? When you are mad as heck because of the issues at work and your grumpy replies has your pup staying at a distance, maybe even cowering when you make eye contact with them?


There is so much power in the use of your voice, specifically the tone of your voice, when you have been properly trained.


Your emotions, when training with your dog, need to be kept under control, especially the negative ones. The answer to this problem, don’t train with your pup if you are in a bad mood.


Much the same as with learning how to use your voice when training, one must also learn to control how they handle the leash when working with dogs. This topic will be covered in a different blog.


What do dogs fundamentally understand about sounds? It is simple, the high tones (for the normal dog) are a good thing. When you speak in a high tone of voice, which we all do when happy, your pup picks up on it and reacts accordingly. When you speak in a low or deep tone of voice, which most of us do when we are grumpy (there are some screamers out there), the pups also pick up on it and act accordingly.


Have you taken the time to watch dogs interact with each other?  When greeting, the ‘tone’ sets the music for the initial interaction. If the pups are sociable, you will hear happy whines accompanied by play bows and the fun begins! If one of the pups is not sociable, you will hear low guttural grumps accompanied by a stiff body and possibly the lifting of a lip. A clear indication to the other pup that play is out of the question.


One can equate the high tone of voice to a “Yes” for the dog and the deep tone of voice as a “No”. Dogs (and people for that matter) learn best when being taught in a binary language, “Yes” for when things are done right, and a “No” for those times when things are not done right.


Make no mistake, the most effective and efficient way to train a dog (or person) is when being able to say Yes and No to them at the right moment. Again, the Yes and the No must be absolutely clear to the dog. Pups do not work well in grey areas.


The biggest mistake(s) that we make as dog owners is not being clear with our dogs when we want to teach them right from wrong. Where we make our biggest mistake, especially those first-time dog owners, is to treat or act as if our dogs are kids and think that they understand what we are trying to tell them. First of all, dogs DO NOT understand sentences. Regardless of whether the dog is doing something right or wrong, if we respond to them in a monotonous voice in a sentence, they will not know if we are rewarding them or chastising them. The next thing, dogs live in the moment. If you are not giving your pup a concise “Yes” or “No” for the action they just did, literally within the first few seconds, they will not know why you are giving a “Yes” or a “No” to them.


What does a “Yes” look like for a dog?


Let’s first clarify what a “Yes” or “No” is not. These two conditions are NOT commands. When giving commands to our dogs, they should be given as uniform as possible to our pups so as never to be misunderstood. Once again, this is a topic for another blog.


The “Yes” condition; There are a few distinguishable ways to deliver a good ‘Yes’ to our dogs.

Some might suggest the ‘clicker’ as one of the best ways to convey a ‘yes’ to one’s pup. It is consistent, the tone of the click never changing and therefore a solid message. The clicker, as with any other method of conveying a positive to a pup, must be trained. When the pup does an action that is considered ‘right’, a click is given followed by a reward, most often a treat. The method is very effective. The issue that I have with the clicker, in the real world, we may not have a clicker with us when needed, what then? Or, what if the dog that we just trained is being handled by someone that is not familiar with the use of the clicker?  When our pup just did something exceedingly well, where is the joy we need to convey to our pup, the clicker ALWAYS gives the same sound? That joy is an element of bonding the dogs need. Last but not least, where is the ‘marker’ (the click) for those actions we do not want to see from our dog?


I have found that the best method for training the ‘Yes’ (commonly called a Marker Word) to our dogs is with our voice. For the pups to understand what a Yes is, we have to teach it to them. Remember, dogs live in the moment! To teach the “Yes”, it must come immediately following the desired action. You give the pup the Sit command and as soon as that butt hits the ground, a “Yes” is verbalized. This marker word MUST be given in a higher pitched tone than you would use in normal conversation. In order for the dog to understand the “Yes” to mean ‘good’, it MUST be followed by a reward within seconds of giving the marker word. With enough repetition, the dogs will absolutely understand they did correctly what was requested of them.


A word of caution, do not give the reward simultaneously with the marker word. Experience has shown that when this is the case, the dogs fail to understand the significance of the marker word.


Please note;

  1. the reward does not always have to be a treat! Treats are best used when teaching a new command, but loving on your pup properly or playing with them can be much more powerful. For more information on rewards, please refer to my Blog, Reward.

  2. Any word may substitute the word “Yes” but it must be used consistently. Examples, “Good”, “Good Boy”, “Good Girl”, “Super” (with a German accent), “Ja”, “Jawohl”, “Si”, and the list goes on.

Once a dog has been taught the meaning of the verbal “Yes” condition, the need for treats or rewards will no longer be continuously necessary as the dog will know that it has pleased its owner with the last action. The uttering of the marker word IS the reward.


The “No” marker word works very similarly to the “Yes”. The difference? The “No” is given in a low, deep and grumpy voice followed by a correction. Once again, the marker word must be given immediately with the undesired behavior and the correction should follow within a couple of seconds of the marker word.


For those more in line with positive only training, the negative reinforcement (correction) might just be to remove the dog from the situation, whether that removal is merely moving the dog out of the situation by several feet or placing them in a different room. The correction might also be a pop of the leash or poke in the ribs, enough to break the pup out of its heightened state of mind. A proper correction should always be followed by positive reinforcement for something done right! An example; you are walking with your dog downtown and a friend approaches. A hand is extended to you in greeting as you stop. Your pup gives a low growl and pulls towards the approaching person, a definite bad behavior. You respond with an “Ah-ah” (marker word) and pop the leash. You are looking down at your dog and the pup responds by sitting next to you to then look up and make eye contact, a definitely desired behavior. You give your pup a ‘Good Boy’ followed by a few slow strokes along his cheek and neck.


EVERY DOG IS DIFFERENT!


When formulating the “Yes” and “No” conditions for a dog, the trainer must know the character of the dog. If the dog is timid or scared, that excited, much to do “Yes” may overwhelm the pup. For the dominant dog, that same joyful “Yes” may be an invitation to rough and tumble. Both reactions of the dogs would be counterproductive in the teaching of manners.


The same goes for the “No” condition. A too vigorous pop of the leash may cause a timid dog to ‘shut down’ and not follow any more directions. Whereby a subtle pop of the leash for a dominant dog would be merely a love tap and go completely unnoticed.


When you have been trained properly to implement the right tone of voice (guys, you have to master a girly voice when giving the “Yes”, and girls, you will need to dig deep to get the grumpy unmistakable and required “No” out) and give those marker words with perfect timing, you will find that training has just been simplified another notch and your bond with your pup has deepened.


THERE IS POWER IN YOUR VOICE!

by Stefanie Kunzelman 9 February 2025
Dog separation anxiety is a common behavioral issue that affects many dogs when they are left alone or are separated from their owners. This anxiety can manifest in various forms of distress and destructive behaviors, which can be troublesome for both the dog and its owner. Understanding the underlying causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions are essential to managing and alleviating separation anxiety in dogs. Dogs are creatures of habit, and any significant change in their daily routine can trigger anxiety. This could include changes in the owner's work schedule, moving to a new home, or a sudden alteration in the household dynamics, such as the arrival of a new family member or pet. Dogs that have experienced abandonment, abuse, or multiple re-homing situations are more likely to develop separation anxiety. The fear of being left alone again can cause significant stress and anxiety. Dogs that have not been properly trained to cope with being alone may struggle with separation anxiety. Early socialization and gradual acclimatization to periods of solitude are crucial in preventing anxiety from developing. One of the most common signs of separation anxiety is destructive behavior, such as chewing on furniture, scratching doors, or tearing up household items. This behavior is often a result of the dog's attempt to escape or alleviate its anxiety. Dogs with separation anxiety may bark or howl excessively when left alone. This vocalization is a form of distress signaling and can be a significant indicator of anxiety. Despite being house-trained, dogs with separation anxiety may urinate or defecate indoors when left alone. This behavior is often linked to the stress and panic they experience in their owner's absence. Some dogs may try to escape from their confinement areas, such as crates or rooms, causing damage to doors, windows, or even injuring themselves in the process. Physical symptoms of anxiety, such as excessive drooling, panting, or shaking, can also be observed in dogs with separation anxiety. Gradual desensitization involves slowly acclimating the dog to being alone by starting with brief periods of separation and gradually increasing the duration over time. This helps the dog build confidence and reduce anxiety. Providing a safe and comfortable space for the dog, such as a crate or a designated room, can help reduce anxiety. This space should be equipped with the dog's favorite toys, bedding, and items that carry the owner's scent. Implementing positive reinforcement training techniques can help modify the dog's behavior. Rewarding calm behavior and gradually exposing the dog to being alone can help reduce anxiety. Ideally, it is best to start desensitizing dogs while they are still puppies or for the rescued pup, right from the first day they arrive at their new forever home. Begin by identifying what should be a safe space for your dog. The crate is recommended as it is practical because it can be taken with you on vacation or brought to another person’s home that is intending to watch out for the pup. Do not force your dog into the crate as it is to become a safe space. Reducing or eliminating separation anxiety will only happen through positive association with their safe space. Begin by tossing treats into the crate so the dog may find them and be rewarded for entering the crate. Once the dog is entering on its own to look for treats, place a treat in the crate and close the door. Position yourself comfortably next to the crate. The dog will begin to get excited, whining and scratching to get out. It is in this phase that you, the owner must remain strong. Whether out of sympathy for the pup or because the noise is so annoying, you will be inclined to let the dog out. Do not! You will be rewarding the dog for its bad behavior. Once your dog has calmed down, this may take several minutes or even longer, open the door, let your dog out and reward with treats and love. Repeat the above sequence many times a day. When your dog begins to relax right away when the door is closed, then you need to begin to put distance between you and the crate. When you are able, create that distance, then you start leaving the room, first for short periods of time and then increasing longer. Once the dog is used to you being away longer and out of sight in the home, then you start going outdoors. Again, start short then gradually increase the duration of the separation. When leaving home, do not give your dog ques that you are leaving for a longer period. Do you say “Goodbye” to your pup before heading to work? Do you say “Goodbye” to your dog when you go to the mailbox? Treat your dog the same way no matter what you are leaving the home for. Ensuring that the dog receives adequate mental and physical stimulation can help alleviate anxiety. Regular exercise, interactive toys, and puzzle feeders can keep the dog engaged and reduce stress levels. In severe cases of separation anxiety, seeking help from a professional dog trainer or a veterinarian may be necessary. They can provide specialized training programs or recommend medication to manage the anxiety. Dog separation anxiety is a challenging issue that requires patience, understanding, and consistent effort from the owner. By identifying the causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions, owners can help their dogs overcome separation anxiety and lead happier, stress-free lives. The key to success lies in a combination of gradual desensitization, creating a safe environment, providing mental and physical stimulation, and seeking professional help when needed. With dedication and empathy, dog owners can significantly improve their pets' well-being and strengthen their bond. Videos with additional information / Technicks Cesar Millan https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmVSLqCh-RI Beckman https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAoDtfpBwVs Steve Mann https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vps9Es0T_5E The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors! References • American Kennel Club. (2021). Separation Anxiety in Dogs. Retrieved from [URL] • PetMD. (2020). How to Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL] • ASPCA. (2019). Dog Behavior: Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL]
by Stefanie Kunzelman 29 January 2025
One of the most annoying and often scary behaviors a dog can exhibit is Food Possessiveness towards people. In this blog we are going to address the topic of food possessiveness in puppies. What is a puppy? You could talk to 20 different people and get 20 different answers. In the world of training, the vast majority of trainers will tell you that a puppy (that is to be trained) is between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks. What are the defining characteristics of a puppy that is food possessive? Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are near the food bowl when the dog is eating Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when your hand approaches the food bowl while the dog is eating. Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are petting the dog while it is eating Why does a puppy (and dogs) show this bad behavior? Simply put, they do not want their food to be taken away. How to address this behavior in a puppy (or a dog)? Show and ingrain in the puppy that we do NOT intend to take their food away! The best way to address this behavior is when the dog is a puppy! If you Google the topic or go on YouTube, you will find a multitude of information on the subject. One thing that I have noticed is that a lot of those people providing the information seem to be stuck on their ‘method’. What I would like to emphasize is that nearly all the methods that I have seen are good! The best methods that I would recommend are listed below. Things you should do (for puppies!): Touching / petting the puppy while it is eating, provoking the bad behavior. If the bad behavior is exhibited, continue petting until it seems less then stop If there is no bad behavior, stop petting sooner Offer higher rewards (to draw the puppy away from its food) You must offer something to the puppy that is of higher food value than what they have in their bowl! If the pup is being fed kibble then offer a jerky If the pup is being fed wet food then offer a food scrap (piece of chicken or steak – can be raw if you know the pup likes it) With your hand close to bowl, call their name, entice them and give the treat When the pup is used to this, call them off the bowl a few feet before giving the treat, or Entice them away from the bowl, while giving the treat, pick up the bowl. Place the bowl back down in front of the pup after a short moment Feed the puppy by hand With the food bowl on the ground, drop the kibble bit by bit into the bowl. The pup sees the food is coming from you! Train with the food This is a method often used by dog trainers, the advantages The puppy is always hungry and driven to work for the food The puppy learns that the food comes from the human The puppy does not learn to guard a food bowl in the first place Things you should NOT do: Do not ‘correct’ your puppy You want to have the most loyal and playful dog! Corrections at this age will dampen your pups’ feelings towards you. Unless using the training or feed by hand method (breakfast is used as the reward during training), do not constantly intervene in your pups feeding time. It may annoy the pup and possibly have the opposite results! For more detailed information, the following links have been listed: 1. How to Stop Puppy Resource Guarding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oyft03x6cU 2. How to Deal With FOOD AGGRESSIVE PUPPIES! | Shield K9 Clips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VM0N_4jx9M The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors!
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